Camino Diary 2010

THE END

19 Aug 2010 Well folks, its all but over now. Now in Santiago and already have the train ticket back to France which will be tomorrow.
Arrived here on last Sunday morning feeling wretched after a cold sleepless night waiting for a bus to here in Ponferrada. The less said about that the better – still feeling angry about the situation I ended up in. A good friend of mine, Neil, had decided to come to Santiago de Compostela and spend a few days, so we did a bit of exploring.
Santiago itself had many similarities with the cathedral towns I saw on the way except that the number of pilgrims is quite overwhelming, plus a large contingent of ordinary tourists – like me for instance. Affordable accommodation is of course hard to find in such circumstances but as Neil arrived the day before me, that problem had already been sorted. Thanks Neil.

Neil Rees

Monument to General Moore

For a day trip we took the train to A Coruna which is a port city on the coast north of Santiago. It was great to smell the fresh sea air again after such a long time in land locked CZ Rep. However, during my travels I had heard of an incident that happened there during the Napoleonic wars in the early 1800s. A Coruna has at least 2 distinct links with Britain – the first in 1589 when we went there to have a go at the Spanish fleet to stop them doing anything again, like in 1588. The second we were on the Spanish side trying to kick Napoleon out of Spain but it turned into one of those glorious defeats we seem to be so proud of. General Sir John Moore, senior officer, was killed there (Jan 1809) whilst keeping the French at bay so that his troops could board ships and scuttle back to England in true Dunkirk fashion. His French counterpart was so impressed with Sir John’s bravery that he set up a memorial to the gallant lad. A small park just above the old harbour area is exclusively dedicated to this fallen hero.

Roman lighthouse. A Coruna. Original Roman stonework inside

The square in A Coruna

The towers of Santiago de Compostela

Tourism

The pilgrims office where they get their Camino certificate.

Bust of General Moore in Coruna park.

What about the camino, I hear you say? To put it simply – its just a very long walk with some interesting places along the way. Some of it I found to be very boring but many of the cities or towns were great places to wander. The most striking features were the narrow streets and the many pavement cafes to relax in. I missed out a large section (about 120km) between Burgos and Leon because of its flatness and the heat. The last 100 km, I thought, was to be avoided at all costs because of the huge numbers going along that section. This last 100km is significant because it’s the only part that has to be done to get a Camino certificate. I dropped out of that one.
There you have it. A strange but interesting month.

LOOKS LIKE PONFERRADA TOMORROW!!

13August 2010

Manjatin

the last templar

It seems I will have to be in Ponferrada tomorrow which will be a bit of a rush to try to get a bus to Compostela. Nothing is certain. However, had an interesting walk and saw an ancient cross where pilgrims place a stone. This has been going on for rather a long time now so the pile has the beginnings of a hill now. Also at a place called Manjatin the last Templar can be found, or that's what he likes to be known as. Funny how all religions attract people like this. Also a shot of my trusty old boots that will go into retirement when all this is over.
Just to finish with here's a movie about Foncebadon. D

EL GANSO

EL GANSO

10 Aug I am sure you are all familiar with the name of the village El Ganso. But those not so well informed it’s about 14km from my next stop which is much better known, Foncebadon. Still none the wiser? Take it from me its in Northern Spain, somewhere.
El Ganso, which I found in a guide book, yesterday, has one thing going for it. According to the guide it has some examples of ancient thatched roofs. In the 12th century it was the site of a hospital and monastery. That’s a lot of information to take in so let’s elaborate further for the sake of confusion.



I can understand there being a hospital once if the guy’s feet in the next bunk are anything to go by. Both his feet are swathed in plasters and stained yellow from the iodine he’s been using. These sorts of sights really do make one wonder at the mentality of the Comino community. He has just spent about an hour poking, prodding and replacing his complex array of various heavy duty dressings. What’s all this got to do with El Ganso – not a lot but its disgusting enough to be interesting, isn’t it.





I think the grammar in the guide was a little out because I think they meant to say, ‘….had some examples…..’ because all I have come across are collapsing walls, gable ends and a couple of barely surviving thatch roofs from the mid nineteenth century. Perhaps the stonewall building skills comes from the Celtic times here.


All along the Camino I have seen silent and deserted building sites, and cranes that haven’t moved for months. Now the property market is awash with property for sale as can be seen even in El Ganso (se vende). They are trying to sell anything – a wall of all things! Perhaps it’s an historical monument. But this village of no more than a 100 people, is crumbling away through age and neglect. Perhaps if the economy hadn’t become so dire, people from the towns and cities would still be thinking of a country cottage here.

The ‘Gabino’ albergue is fine and as it’s the only one in the village (16beds). This morning a veritable army of walkers emerged out of Astorga. I didn’t realize just how many there were until I, and several others, took a wrong path. Returning along towards a bridge that was the correct way, I saw to my horror an almost endless line of walkers crossing it, at 7.30 in the morning! When I was going to Astorga yesterday morning there was not the same numbers of people so I can only guess that a lot of them had started in Astorga. This all made me wonder about room at the small albergues along this part.


The bar (Bar Cowboy) has some wacky locals hanging around it. I met one guy called Pedro in the bar who is contributing handsomely to Spain’s financial deficit. His English was pretty good and he seemed very proud to be receiving a large quantity of euros a month because he has ‘something wrong with his head’. For pleasure only, he claimed, he teaches maths to friends and acquaintances. I think that just about sums it up.
But just after I arrived here at about 10.30 I met a couple of middle aged Americans riding collapsible bikes with small wheels. They’d come down through France and were doing the whole trail. Another incredibly sun blackened guy of indeterminable age, who according the barman was completely ‘loco’, punctuated his conversation with loud earsplitting knocks on the heavy wooden table. When the barman began to imitate this unusual form of self expression, El Loco thought he’d found a friend for life. The last I saw of him was when he was bedding down in the church porch.

AN INTERNET WILDERNESS

Sorry folks, cant do much at the moment as there isnt a decent source along this part. In Foncebadon without a paddle. Hope to upload something in 3 days time in Ponderrada where I get the bus to Compstela.

ASTORGA AGAIN

This just a quickie because I just dont want to do much today. The walk from the last albergue, about 17km, was the end of the boring part where I have been walking beside or near the same busy highway for the past 3 days. Tomorrow it should improve as I begin to ascend into the hills. On Wednesday it'll all be up hill. As you should know, its split into short stages so that I get to Santiago next week end. Its very hot here as usual. Rain threatened this morning but now all the clouds have disappeared. From what I have read, it rains a lot in Santiago. I'll believe it when I feel the cool refreshing liquid on my bald part. Cheers D

A DAY OF EATING

Its a day for blogs. What a difference it makes to have a freely accessible wifi and some time on my hands. I went out this evening looking for a meal but more of that in a moment. The sight of that full boot rack would strike fear into the heart of a weary traveller just arrived. This is the way that most albergues deal with the incredibly dusty battered boots that come in on the (blistered) feet of tired legs. And then below the pictures of knights who make regular appearances here in in the town.

Artist materials are freely available in the albergue which gives the inmates an opportunity to express there feelings on a board. Not quite sure what to think when I see some of the efforts.

Now for the food. During the trail I have been hard pressed to find a no nonsense good value eating place like the ones common in most cities and towns in Europe. Mostly I have seen the type of restaurants that have fancy menus with prices to match. They often skimp on the quantity and want at least 10 euros for the pleasure of eating it, and thats not including drinks. But this evening I found this place called Los Angeles where I found just stuff I need for this wandering lifestyle. The whole thing, including a coffee was 5 euros. Of course nothing is completely straight forward. It was well worth the cost but watch out for the bread trick. (80 cents and I didn't ask for it. The waiter (in picture) backed off gracefully and knew he'd tried it on.
Looks a bit greasy but great for an active day ahead.

THE LAST STAGE

I should be in Astorga again tomorrow which wont be a problem for me as I am quite fond of the place with its Gaudi palace and fine cathedral. But here's the plan for the next week which will see me in Compostela next Sunday. As you can see they are pretty short walks as I want to be able to catch a bus in Ponferrada.

8th Hospital de Orbigo
9th Astorga 16km 850mt
10th Santa Catolina de Somoza 9km
11th El Ganso 4km
12th Foncebaden 13km All up hill to 1500mt
13th El Acebo 13km mostly downhill
14th Molinaseca 8km downhill
15th Ponferrada 700mt

On the way from the Villadangos albergue this morning, I was aware of someone in the distance behind me. It came as a great surprise when the footsteps got louder and then came a shout of 'What the hell are you doing here , Derek? (or words to that effect) It was an English guy called Alistair whom I had met around the end of my first week on the trail. I was surprised as he was and it turned out that he had to go back to England for a meeting and had just returned to the walk at Leon. Had a pleasant walk to Hospital de Orbigo punctuated with a couple of coffees and a fried egg breakfast.



Hospital de Orbigo is a very pleasant village on a river. Beside the bridge, under reconstruction, there is jousting arena which is used at a festival here every year. Pity about the iron work, it looks like a fine medieval bridge.

The San Miguel albergue is a large rambling house on the main street with walls covered in paintings (for sale no doubt) and a well under the iron staircase.

ANY IDEAS?

I have seen quite a lot of these wooden constructions with embedded stones . Some have been used as gates and now seen 3 being used as tables, with a glass top. A lot of the stones have fallen out of the ones in the pictures, but I cant find out what the purpose is for the stones, and the curved sledge like shape. Any ideas? Its a really heavy object.


I have found the answer and I'll let you know what it is sometime

OUT IN THE STICKS

6th August Albergue la Casa Del Comino in Valverde de la Virgen. I don’t think I’ll have any chance of uploading this today because I seem to be somewhat out in sticks. The albergue has got everything going for it except not a shop in reasonable distance. The trail follows the main road to Astorga and the sound of the busy road can be heard here. I only did about 12 km from the albergue in Leon as I have plenty of time to get to Astorga and then to Compostela. At present I am the only person staying here which has its advantages. No snoring hopefully tonight. Later joined by a Korean woman and an Italian guy. Neither snored.

Yesterday evening I treated myself to good meal in Leon and then on the way here this morning I had a pretty big breakfast with some English guys I had dinner with last night. Looks like short walks and eating for the next few days.


On the way out of Leon I came across a hillside full of what could only be described as hobbit houses. I think they must be wine cellars like they have in Moravia in the Czech Rep.

In the movie I want to explain that I had a brush with death when the giants head glanced off my shoulder. Luckily no injury but it was close shave which led to a lot of concern on the part of the Giants and Grallers of Sant Celoni. I mentioned this before but they are from Catalonia. ‘Close Shave’! No chance ‘cause I lost my razor blades long ago. D

ON THE WAY AGAIN IN VILLADANGOS DEL PARAMO

Not much of a chance to upload very much on this connection but anyway I will do it when I get the chance. Heading westwards again and contrary to various comments, no blisters, not feeling desperately tired and not out here to test myself in any way. If that was the case I would now be battling against the masses on the last stretch to Compostela. At the moment the terrain is very flat and gets pretty hot around lunchtime. The idea is short hops, no more than 15km, and be in an albergue well before the desperate hoards begin to arrive. It seems that most of the people around now are just beginning their walks. .
About 28km to Astorga, so the plan stays the same and at some point next week I will be on a bus to Compostela.

A FORCED RETREAT TO LEON

Portomarin. Not quite what I expected - a holiday resort!


A walk round the old walls of Lugo while waiting for the next bus to Leon


Portomarin. Foot doctors at work (and below)



above and below. Dawn on the way to Sarria




Portomarin. A few of the pilgrims setting off this morning
Have arrived back in Leon and will do walk from here to Astorga which I missed out. Its a long sad tale that forced me into backtracking but as you might deduce from the pictures in Portomarin (70km from Compostela), it was full to bursting. I had already decided that Sarria was not going to be a good place to stop so I carried on hoping for something better. Exhausted, I found that Portomarin was full to bursting point with literally coachloads heading off along the way. Of course, no where to sleep so I so had to sleep in a small grassy area behind a chapel. I felt sure this situation wasn't going to improve and successive nights bivying behind holy places was not very appealing, to say the least. The only other option would have been cheap hotels which are at least 6 times the cost of the albergues. Went through Lugo on the way back which is one those important cathedral towns with a long city wall to walk around. Hopefully now I can wile away several days before I get to Astorga and then get a bus to Compostela, to be there on the 16th August. This is the crux of the matter, I have a flight home on the 20th and I cant spend too much time in Compostela because the cost would be astronomical. But still, feeling good now because I found a bed in Leon, and had my first shower for 2 days. Must find somewhere to eat now. Ola

TO TRIACASTELA

For the last two days there has been no sign of wifi. Here in Sarria it seems more available. Contemplating next move and I think I will have to take a bus about 15km down the route to be able to find a place to sleep. The sheer numbers people is causing some headaches now. When I left the albergue this morning at around 6.15 I soon found myself playing follow my leader with the groups who had the also left in the gloom before sunrise. Now for what happened yesterday which, after a bad start was superb as far as the scenery was concerned.

3/8 Today started out as a disaster. The significant increase in the numbers of tourists/pilgrims caused the albergue in Valcarce to be full. This wasn’t a problem earlier on because most people were real Camino travelers, but now I have hit the tourist belt. Many people join the trail here, and later on, to walk the last part as a 0ne or two week holiday. However, last night I had a chorus of snorers in a horribly stuffy room with about 30 sleepers. I was forced to leave around 4.30 and started walking through the cold night. Later, even more ominous signs of the explosion of walkers came when at a roadside bar. I watched as two successive, huge groups came to get refreshment.


I passed be several albergues still silent before any of the walkers had stirred.




When the sun eventually began to rise at around 8am, the sky told me that it was going to be another hot day. This part of the Camino is very sparsely populated with only an occasional overpriced bar so I was to be without a decent breakfast for the whole day – which turned out to be a very long one.

After climbing over 2000 feet, I the scene was of a sea of cloud below me with the peaks of other hills like islands.
A long way below lies Triacastela. Just above centre about 8km away.

I thought the trail would start to descend from there but it undulated following a ridge for more kilometres than I wanted. At one point I passed a giant statue of a pilgrim peering into the distance – like me when I cant see any reassuring signs to the track.


When I finally saw my target, Triacastela, it was way below me and still some 8 km away. The path down was extremely steep in places – descending like that is just as exhausting as climbing at the end of the day. I finally arrived there in the heat of the afternoon around 4pm. I had walked about 10 hours to cover about 34 km which was far too much on a hot day. All the albergues were full but in a stroke of good fortune, a group of 5 girls decided that 3 of them would sleep in the church, so making a bed available for me. This was exactly the situation I had been dreading when I saw those groups up at the bar in the hills. Also, something that should not happen, is that many beds had been reserved by the affluent holiday makers doing their so called pilgrimages.
Triacastela appears to have nothing endearing about it unlike the quaint little villages I had passed through during the last few days. Lots of new looking albergues. I am sure now that it just a business opportunity without the traditions that go along with the Camino.

But there was something to see after all when I came across a group of Catalans with their dancing giants which are very traditional in their culture. They call themselves the Giants and Grallers Colla of Sant Celoni. These over 3mt tall giants dance a swirl around with a man underneath supporting it on his shoulders and head. Great fun. They are gradually moving from village to village until they reach Santiago.

VEGA DE VECARCE

Thatched ancient granary


A flyover at the back of the village


Me in Pereje


Villafranca at dawn. Had a great breakfast here.


Villafranca

2/8/10 It was not surprising that I stopped two days ago in Cacabelos when I did. It wasn’t until yesterday that someone told me that the temperature reached 40 degrees in the town. But yesterday was a bit cooler and I managed to do some strenuous site seeing when I took a long stroll up a hill to see the remains of the Roman fortress. Of course, not much left to see now except the line of ash in the excavated earth when it was burnt by the Moors. That’s what an informed good English speaking local told me after I had been up there.

The room I took above a bar in town was nothing to shout about but at least I had a room to myself after all the nights spent with the hoards who are progressing along the way like shuffling penguins. The word for ‘pilgrim’ here is ‘Peregrino’ which it not dissimilar and there is yet another similarity in that they both seem to spend an inordinate amount of time contemplating their feet. Anyway, I’m back with the penguins now.

I must have fallen asleep very quickly last night and awoke feeling pretty good at around 4.30. I was on the road before dawn and made good time. The first part of the walk was a steady 5km climb but after that the way undulated through gorges and over passes. I arrived at the Villafranca albergue (at the top of the first hill) at a very opportune time because there still plenty of coffee and food left from the 3 euro buffet breakfast they provide. Feeling replenished I felt that the day would be a good one. The temperature was perfect for walking and now in Vega de Vecarce, some 26km later.

This is one of the nicest parts of the trail I have been along up to now with big steep rounded hills with grassy and forested slopes. It roughly follows a fairly new highway which really does live up to its name. There are a lot of incredibly high viaducts carrying trucks and cars. This is a very scenic area.

Just to finish I found a reconstruction of the typical kind of house that was built here many hundreds of years ago. Interesting thatch roof.